A SECRET SPANISH HIDEAWAY
One of Spain's hidden family gems is just a short hop from Barcelona
THINK Catalonia and you think Barcelona with its wonderful architecture, boutique hotels and a decent football side.
But think again and you might realise that Barcelona is the gateway to Spain's best-kept secret, a region of stunning beauty and rich in history. Catalonia is a place apart and its people are fiercely independent and obsessively proud of their history.
With regular flights from Belfast International Airport from easyJet and Aer Lingus, Barcelona has become one of our most popular weekend destinations -- a two-and-a-half-hour flight and you are in one of the most lively and beautiful cities the continent has to offer.
But in the holiday season, it always pays to look beyond the city walls, and this summer that is exactly what we did.
It is hard to resist the urge to hire a car when you are flying to the continent. With a family of four it's easier to head for the car rental
desk and all pile into a nice air-conditioned motor and then argue over the directions.
But remember not all public transport systems are as limited as ours, or as expensive. Spain has an excellent train system and we decided to do without the stress of driving and put ourselves in the hands of RENFE, the national transport company.
We were heading to Camping Les Medes, a small five-star site near the town of L'Estartit on the Costa Brava. It is always a little
stressful getting the train in a foreign country -- the stations can be large, hectic and hard to negotiate.
The station in Barcelona International Airport was the exact opposite and the four of us boarded our air conditioned train at a total cost of €32 for the 170km journey to the town of Flaca -- compare that to ticket prices on the rattling Enterprise service between Belfast and Dublin.
We had to change at the main Barcelona station, which was negotiated with ease. The train takes you towards Figueres and the
French border but to get to L'Estarit you get off at Flaca and hail a taxi for the 20-minute journey to the north east corner of the Costa Brava.
Advantages
The countryside is so different to the conventional impression of Spain, which most of us base on the Costa del Sol. Acres and acres of fig groves are framed by the Montgri mountain range and in particular the Roca Maura mountain and its 13th Century castle that overlooks the resort of L'Estartit.
The town is a small and very pretty family resort and its position, between the mountains and the coast, gives it the dual advantages of 15 kilometres of beautiful rocky coastline together with one of the longest sandy beaches on the Costa Brava.
And that beach is something to behold -- seemingly endless golden sand and particularly unspoilt. Yes there are the beach bars but none of the hawkers trying to get you to buy fake designer sunglasses every few seconds.
We sampled the delights of the Habana Beach Bar near the town and Monkees a few kilometres outside the town -- and both ticked all the boxes. The staff could not have been more friendly and a cold beer and a cheeseburger or plate of paella will set you back
about €12.
Be warned: only a few of the beach bars rent parasols and if you intend a day on the beach be sure to bring your own. The sands are regularly patrolled by lifeguards, but do they all have to have six packs and smouldering good looks?
Sleepy
By nightfall a small army descends on the beach and cleans the sands for the next day's sunworshippers. Visitors wake up to a pristine beach, with sands smoothed and not a pick of litter in sight. L'Estartit was once a sleepy fishing village that has been transformed into a popular holiday destination with Spaniards and international tourists, especially the Dutch and Germans.
There are a couple of the obligatory British pubs and we spotted one Irish bar, but no one was advertising steak and kidney pie and EastEnders.
This place has a real family appeal to it and there were lots of parents with young children strolling through the streets of what we found to be an extremely relaxing and fairly quiet resort.
There are plenty of leisure activities and night clubs to keep young people amused in the summer months, but if you're looking for foam parties and all-nighters then look elswhere.
The old-world charm of a traditional Spanish fishing harbour sits happily beside the modern marina. There are plenty of decent eating houses to suit all budgets but we would recommend Cafe Alba in the old town square -- the paella is fantastic and it is very child friendly.
Then go for a stroll through the narrow streets and enjoy the shopping or perhaps a drink in the countless kerbside bars and restaurants.
But perhaps the town's major asste is the fact it overlooks the stunning Medes Islands, an archipelago of seven islands that together make up one of the most important nature and marine reserves in the western Mediterranean.
Popular
The Medes, one and a half kilometres off the beach, have been protected since 1990 when a law was passed prohibiting fishing and any interference with the natural habitat and animal life in the area.
The result has been the development of a diverse and rich marine life of thousands of different species, attracting scuba divers from around the world. Glass-bottomed boat trips around the islands are one of the most popular leisure activities among summer visitors.
The boat trip comes highly recommended. Cruise up the stunning coastline and then gaze through the glass-bottomed craft at the
amazing rock formations and sea life -- an unforgettable experience.
The clear waters and of the Mediterranean make it a paradise for scuba divers but for the novices, like us, there are countless diving
schools offering lessons and diving trips. You can also go water skiing, fishing or sailing.
There is a huge water park at Loret del Mar farther up the coast, but if it is a beach holiday you're looking for it is hard to get past L'Estartit.
It is a million miles from the over-developed resorts of the south and makes an ideal family destination.
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WE WERE HAPPY CAMPERS AT LUXURY FIVE-STAR SITE
OUR trip took us to Camping Les Medes, the perfect base from which to enjoy this corner of Catalonia.
Everything about this place screams fivestar relaxation and don't be put off by the word 'camping'. If you're not the touring caravan type you can book your family into a stylish air-conditioned apartment overlooking a pleasant pool area.
To be honest, if you don't fancy going into town you could happily spend your holiday on site. There are activities for the kids and regular exercise and aerobics classes for the adults. Sauna facilities and on-site massage service make up the complete package.
A nice restaurant and bar area make it even more attractive. The key words here are destressing and relaxing and if you can't do it at Les Medes you are in trouble.
Perfect
An hourly trolley bus service takes you into town -- a family ticket costs €7 -- and there are regular stops on the way into L'Estartit so you can hop on and off as you please. The last bus leaves town at 11pm.
Joseph Calsina, who runs the site, has developed the perfect family holidy destination and goes out of his way to ensure everything is to his guests' liking.
Bikes can be hired and the resort's reception has all the information you need for your stay.
The location is ideal -- close to town and a 10-minute walk to the golden beaches of L'Estartit -- so holidaymakers have the best of both worlds: a quiet rural retreat a stone's throw from a picturesque seaside town offering every activity imaginable along with a host of eating houses and watering holes.
EasyJet and Aer Lingus both offer flights to Barcelona. Prices vary depending on time of year and how early you book, but if you're
lucky you can fly for as little as £31.99.
There are regular train connections to all parts of Catalonia from the station inside Barcelona International Airport. Fares are cheap and trains are clean and, most importantly, air-conditioned.
Check out www.campinglesmedes.com for more information.
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